Faroe Islands Travel

3 desolated places in Faroe Islands - road trip from Saksun to Kirkjubøur

What are you looking for in Faroes? Lord of the Rings views, wilderness that is as captivating as undisturbed by anything – even the presence of people, and it would seem also by time? Whatever your motivation is, the islands will not disappoint you. They have a lot to offer! However it might require a but of an effort, some of those spectacular places are off the beaten track. Don’t you worry tho! I came up with a plan – I’ve tried it myself – which will guide you on the most beautiful places on Streymoy.

TRANSPORT

Let’s put it clear : car is more than useful in Faroes. It’s not that buses don’t run at all. But relying solely on them as the only means of transportation can be problematic since there aren’t too many connections, and sometimes, due to weather conditions, they can be canceled. This doesn’t happen frequently, mainly during stormy seasons, which are off-season. Nevertheless, it’s worth keeping that in mind. Well, kanska country welcome to :d

We have three places in today’s plan : Saksun, Kirkjubøur and Velbastaður

Kirkjubøur and Velbastaður: you can get there by a city bus leaving from the center of Torshavn, Steinatun Nordur, on line no. 7. It stops directly in Kirkjubøur, from where you can walk to Velbastaður – and vice versa, if you prefer. Those two places can also be reached by hiking there. One of the most spectacular paths lead from Torshavn through picturesque lakes, views of Koltur and Hestur, and winding roads accompany you all the way to the village.

Saksun does not have bus connection from the capital at all.

10 inhabitants, querelsome Faroese farmer and a few particularly wild horses – Saksun at its finest

A highly scenic and narrow road leads to Saksun, allowing only one vehicle at a time. You can still pass by sheep that freely graze on the road, but it would be impossible with another car. The surrounding landscape is reminiscent of Windows wallpapers – so enchanting that it feels unreal! You can easily envision Bambi nibbling on grass in a clearing there.

Hence it’s impossible to get lost – only one road which, what is more, is dead-end.

Saksun is a quaint little village, with houses charmingly scattered across the hills, nestled between a waterfall and a valley. At the heart of it all stands a petite white church adorned with a grassy roof. This church is the farthest building in the village, offering a stunning view of Pollurin Bay from its doorstep.

Saksun has become the filming location for the novel ‘Barbara’ by Jørgen-Frantz Jacobsen never completed but adapted for the screen twice. It is a historical and cultural novel, a romantic novel depicting the Faroe Islands in the 17th century…

Describing this place as unique would be an understatement. It’s not just the location but also the bay that sets Saksun apart. At high tide, the bay is completely submerged, but during low tide, its waters recede into the Atlantic Ocean, revealing a meandering path leading straight to Uta Lonna, or Black Beach. The bay transforms into a serene lake, and as you walk along its black shores, you can approach the Pollurin waterfall.

To find the right path, backtrack a bit to the intersection and then follow the only road again, leading toward the bay. Don’t be put off by the toll gate on the road – it’s a relic from a Faroese farmer who once expressed his displeasure with the increasing number of tourists. The fees were only collected for a time, and they managed to appease the initially unwelcoming locals, so feel free to pass through the gate as if it’s just a part of the scenery.

One important note: Keep in mind that the path revealed at high tide is essentially the bay’s floor, so it can get quite muddy. Be sure to bring suitable footwear!

Village, unassuming at the first glance, with hidden gems – Kirkjubøur

On my way back from Saksun, I decided to make the most of the sunny day in the Faroe Islands by heading to the opposite side of Streymoy island to catch the sunset. I didn’t have a specific destination in mind; I just wanted to keep Koltur and Hestur, the neighboring islands, within view. By pure chance, I stumbled upon Kirkjubøur.

Kirkjubøur, once a bustling medieval port, now a tranquil village inhabited by a mere 74 people, beckoned me with its charm. At its heart lies the small, whitewashed 12th-century church of St. Olaf, seemingly perched over the water. On the other side of the church, a cemetery holds weathered tombstones, their inscriptions faded with time, a testament to centuries gone by. The ambiance is further enriched by the nearby Magnus Cathedral, proudly standing since the 13th century, resilient against gusty winds and the lapping sea.

While there may not be a lot to see in Kirkjubøur, I encourage you to savor a leisurely stroll along the coastline, wander through the village’s quaint houses, or perhaps attempt to decipher the inscriptions on those ancient tombstones. This tiny village exudes a unique atmosphere, not to mention the incredible views that surround it.

From Kirkjubøur, a mere few minutes will take you to a spot I consider perfect for a sunset picnic.

Epic sunset spot : Velbastaður

It’s the oldest village in the Faroe Islands, inhabited by only 223 residents.It’s name likely derives from the world ‘ve’ signifying pagan temple whic is quite plausible considering its proximity to Kirkjubøur, and the historical relics found there.

Velbastaður itself is enchanting with its tranquility – with only 223 residents, who would disturb it? – and the view of Koltur and Hestur. An ideal place to conclude your road trip across Streymoy!

Hope you enjoyed todays ROAD TRIP! Let me know which place impressed you the most. And stay tuned ’cause more Faroese stories will follow 🙂

If you’re thinking about the Islands as your next destination, read/listen to what surprised me about them!

You may also like...

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *